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Glossary of Vintage Jewelry

When someone mentions the "vintage" of a piece of jewelry, they’re talking about the era it came from—and that’s where the magic begins. Whether it's the bold glamour of the Art Deco 1920s or the romantic details of the Victorian era, vintage jewelry isn’t just old—it’s a wearable time capsule. Each piece reflects its time's style, craftsmanship, and charm, making it as much a story as it is an accessory.

The Georgian Era

Georgian era (1714–1837) was a time of opulence and intricate craftsmanship in jewelry design. Because everything was handmade, Georgian jewelry is known for its delicate, detailed work and carefully constructed settings. Pieces often featured rose-cut or table-cut diamonds set in closed-back mounts, with foil backing used to enhance their sparkle in candlelight. Gold and silver were the dominant metals, and many designs drew inspiration from nature, with floral, scroll, and bow motifs being especially popular. Popular gemstones included garnets, topaz, emeralds, and pearls, often set in rich, ornate arrangements.

As styles evolved over the long Georgian period, so did the types of jewelry worn. Early in the era, baroque influences were evident, while later designs reflected the growing influence of neoclassicism, with cleaner lines and classical motifs. Sentimental jewelry was also a significant part of the era—memento mori, mourning rings, and miniature portrait lockets were common, often personalized and deeply meaningful. Because Georgian jewelry was often repurposed or melted down over time, surviving examples are relatively rare, making them highly prized by collectors today.

 

The Victorian Period

 Early Victorian (Romantic) (1837-1855) - In a time of delicacy and modesty, jewelry was designed to coincide with the fashions. Since clothing did not show the ankle or the ear, dresses were fitted at the waist, and full to the ground, and hairstyles always covered the ear. To adorn this look, hair ornaments, broaches, lockets, and bracelets were very popular. The jewelry often featured nature-inspired motifs delicately etched into gold. Other popular designs included classical Greek and Roman themes, Gothic and Medieval styles, grapes, vines, leaves, eyes, hands, knots, serpents, and hearts. There was a distinction between jewelry worn during the day and at night. Bracelets were the most popular kind of jewelry. Gemstones and diamonds were only to be worn at night. The Victorian Period is named for Queen Victoria, and during the Romantic Period, Queen Victoria married Prince Albert. Jewelry from this time is relatively rare.

Mid Victorian (Grand) (1856-1885) - During the Grand Period, the modesty of the earlier period was lifted, and jewelry was designed to reflect wealth and prominence. The Civil War was taking place in the United States, and the role of women in society was undergoing significant changes. Large hoop skirts and corsets became essential, and the neckline of dresses lowered, making necklaces extremely popular. Perhaps inspired by the death of Prince Albert, much of the jewelry took on darker designs, including solemn, dark, and grave motifs, anchors, hearts, crosses, beetles, bells, and monograms. The jewelry often featured heavy, dark stones such as jet, onyx, amethyst, and garnet. This jewelry is rare, probably because of its delicacy. Pieces were designed to be large in scale, giving the impression of wealth, but without the weight.

Late Victorian (Eclectic) (1885-1901) - As the century drew to a close, women became more involved in the workplace. Clothing was becoming more form-fitting, and the jewelry had a more feminine feel. Diamonds were popular, and bright gemstones such as sapphire, peridot, and spinel were used more often. Designs such as stars, crescents, birds, flowers, hearts, horseshoes, moon, owl, and insects were popular. Jewelry from this time is fun to collect because of its presence in many estates today. As technology advanced, jewelry began to be mass-produced, which made it less expensive.

The Edwardian Period

 The Edwardian Period (1901-1910) – Queen Victoria died at the turn of the century, and her son Edward took the throne. The jewelry from this era is more expensive because it features platinum and diamonds, and gems such as emeralds and rubies. American women began to lose royalty interest and turned to theatre stars for fashion trends. 

The Edwardian period was the first to use platinum because the oxyacetylene torch was invented. This torch could reach the extremely high temperatures needed to work with platinum, which has a much higher melting point than gold or silver.

The Art Nouveau Period

Art Nouveau (1880-WWI) – The designs of Art Nouveau often featured flowers, butterflies, and other dreamy feminine motifs. The period began in France and gained popularity throughout the Western world. During this period, Japan became a significant player because it established a trading partnership with France. Primarily made in yellow gold, the pieces are still very collectible. Popular designs were female heads, serpents, dragonflies, flowers, swans, peacocks, and bats. The jewelry in the Art Nouveau period became an expression of art.

 The Art Deco Period

 Art Deco (WWI-WWII) – The birth of the Art Deco period brought forth pieces with more structure and cultural influences than the Art Nouveau period. Jewelry design drew great inspiration from the art of the Native American, ancient Egyptian, and oriental regions. It also took inspiration from the cubist movement, which characterized the jewelry with square and angular features. These pieces were often detailed because of the improved ability to cut diamonds and colored stones. Today, jewelry from the Art Deco period remains some of the most popular and sought-after vintage jewelry.

 The Retro Period

 Retro (1940s-1950s) – Retro jewelry drew inspiration from the glitz and glamour of the Hollywood lifestyle. These pieces were always bold and elaborate. This period was the birth of celebrities as fashion icons. Multi-colored gold was used, and a lot of the jewelry was bright and colorful. Large cocktail rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces, and charm bracelets were all immensely popular. Design themes commonly found in the retro period were stylized flowers, spacecraft, bows, feathers, cornucopias, and birds.

The 60's

Jewelry in the 1960s was all about bold expression, individuality, and breaking away from tradition. The early part of the decade was influenced by the sleek, modern style of icons like Jackie Kennedy, featuring clean lines and elegant costume jewelry. As the Mod movement took off, jewelry became fun and futuristic—think bright colors, oversized hoop earrings, geometric shapes, and materials like plastic, enamel, and Lucite. The Space Age also left its mark, with designers experimenting with aluminum, chrome, and other non-traditional materials to create jewelry that looked like it came from another planet.

By the late 1960s, the counterculture and hippie movements brought a more natural, free-spirited vibe. Jewelry reflected this shift with earthy materials like wood, leather, and turquoise, along with handmade and globally inspired designs. Long beaded necklaces, peace signs, and fringe-heavy accessories became symbols of self-expression and rebellion. Costume jewelry was booming, too, thanks to designers like Kenneth Jay Lane, who made glamorous, eye-catching pieces accessible to the masses. Whether polished or psychedelic, 1960s jewelry was fearless, fun, and unmistakably stylish.

 

What is the difference between Antique, Vintage, Estate, and repurposed jewelry?

Estate jewelry is anything that was previously owned. It can also be called second-hand jewelry. Estate jewelry may not be either vintage or antique. See their descriptions below.

Antique jewelry, by strict definition, is jewelry that is 100 years old or older. Antique jewelry is often characterized by the period in which it was made. Those periods would include Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Retro, and Mid-century. The last two periods would not fall under the strict definition of 'antique,' but we would still consider them antique.

Vintage jewelry for us is previously owned jewelry that is at least 20 years old but not an antique.

Repurposed jewelry is jewelry that is made from new parts composed of second-hand materials. Often, it is made from an antique or vintage gemstone whose original setting was well-loved but no longer in wearable condition. That gemstone is reset into a new setting for future enjoyment.