Learn how to identify historic design periods and some interesting facts about the fashions and events in those periods.

 

The Victorian Period

 

 Early Victorian (Romantic) (1837-1855) - In a time of delicacy and modesty, jewelry was designed to coincide with the fashions. Since clothing did not show the ankle or the ear, dresses were fitted at the waist, and full to the ground, and hairstyles always covered the ear. To adorn this look, hair ornaments, broaches, lockets, and bracelets were very popular. The jewelry often featured nature-inspired motifs delicately etched into gold. Other popular designs included classical Greek and Roman themes, Gothic and Medieval styles, grapes, vines, leaves, eyes, hands, knots, serpents, and hearts. There was a distinction between jewelry worn during the day and that worn at night. Bracelets were the most popular kind of jewelry. Gemstones and diamonds were only to be worn at night. The Victorian Period is named for Queen Victoria, and during the Romantic Period, Queen Victoria married Prince Albert. Jewelry from this time is relatively rare.

Mid Victorian (Grand) (1856-1885) - During the Grand Period, the modesty of the earlier period was lifted, and jewelry was designed to reflect wealth and prominence. The Civil War was taking place in the United States, and the role of women in society was undergoing significant changes. Large hoop skirts and corsets became essential, and the neckline of dresses lowered, making necklaces extremely popular. Perhaps inspired by the death of Prince Albert, much of the jewelry took on darker designs, including solemn, dark, and grave motifs, as well as anchors, hearts, crosses, beetles, bells, and monograms. The jewelry often featured heavy, dark stones such as jet, onyx, amethyst, and garnet. This jewelry is rare, probably because of its delicacy. Pieces were designed to be large in scale, giving the impression of wealth, but without the weight.

Late Victorian (Eclectic) (1885-1901) - As the century drew to a close, women became more involved in the workplace. Clothing was becoming more form-fitting, and the jewelry took on a more feminine feel. Diamonds were popular and bright gemstones such as sapphire, peridot, and spinel were used more often. Designs such as stars, crescents, birds, flowers, hearts, horseshoes, moon, owl, and insects were very popular. Jewelry from this time fun to collect because of its presence in many estates today. As technology advanced, jewelry began to be mass produced which made it less expensive.

 

The Edwardian Period

 The Edwardian Period (1901-1910) – At the turn of the century, Queen Victoria died, and her son Edward took the throne. The jewelry from this era is more expensive because it features platinum and diamonds and gems such as emeralds and rubies. American women began to lose royalty interest and turned to theatre stars for fashion trends.

 

The Art Nouveau Period

Art Nouveau (1880-WWI) – The designs of Art Nouveau often featured flowers, butterflies, and other dreamy feminine motifs. The period began in France and gained popularity throughout the Western world. Japan became a significant player during this period because it established a trading partnership with France. Primarily made in yellow gold, the pieces are still very collectible. Popular designs used were female heads, serpents, dragonflies, flowers, swans, peacocks, and bats. The jewelry in the Art Nouveau period became an expression of art.

 The Art Deco Period

 Art Deco (WWI-WWII) – The birth of the Art Deco period brought forth pieces with more structure and cultural influences than the Art Nouveau period. Jewelry design drew great inspiration from the art of the Native American, ancient Egyptian, and oriental regions. It also took inspiration from the cubist movement, which characterized the jewelry with square and angular features. These pieces were often detailed because of the improved ability to cut both diamonds and colored stones. Today, jewelry from the Art Deco period remains some of the most popular and sought-after vintage jewelry.

    

The Retro Period

 Retro (1940s-1950s) – Retro jewelry drew inspiration from the glitz and glamour of the Hollywood lifestyle. These pieces were always bold and elaborate. This period was the birth of celebrities as fashion icons. Multi-colored gold was used, and a lot of the jewelry was bright and colorful. Large cocktail rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces, and charm bracelets were all immensely popular. Design themes commonly found in the retro period were stylized flowers, spacecraft, bows, feathers, cornucopias, and birds.

 

What is the difference between Antique, Vintage, Estate, and repurposed jewelry?

Estate jewelry is anything that was previously owned. It can also be called second-hand jewelry. Estate jewelry may not be either vintage or antique. See their descriptions below.

Antique jewelry, by strict definition, is jewelry that is 100 years old or older. Antique jewelry is often characterized by the period in which it was made. Those periods would include Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Retro, and Mid-century. The last two periods would not fall under the strict definition of 'antique,' but we would still consider them antique.

Vintage jewelry for us is previously owned jewelry that is at least 20 years old but not an antique.

Repurposed jewelry is jewelry that is made from new parts composed of second-hand materials. Often, it is made from an antique or vintage gemstone whose original setting was well-loved but no longer in wearable condition. That gemstone is reset into a new setting for future enjoyment.